NEF'S NOTES

Nef's Notes are some notes on my experience with snakes that may be helpful to those of you who own or want to own snakes. The first thing I tell anyone that wants to own any animal is that you must respect the animal, understand their limitations, and above all else be a responsible owner.

Snakes are wonderful animals but the are limited in their thinking so you as the owner must understand this. This means they will not act like a dog or cat. They will not fetch nor will they act on command and will not understand if you chastised them.

Snakes as pets are depending on you to feed them correctly, give them fresh water every couple of days and provide a safe and secure environment. They will not tell you when they are sick. So you as the owner must check to see that they are well.

Feeding Snakes: I always feed my snakes in a different container than what they are housed in. The reason is a thing called a feeding respond, which means if you feed them in the same container they will associate the opening of the lid as feeding time and you may get struck. So being the responsible owner who doesn't like to be bitten, I feed them in a Tupperware container. Sure it may take longer to feed them but you are less likely to be bitten. I usually wait about 20 to 30 minutes before putting them back in their enclosure. The second thing that I see a lot of people including some so call experts is feeding or handling the snakes food by hand. This is a big mistake. The
snake is again limited in its processing. The snake senses the smell of the prey and senses the heat of it and you hand. They will not know where the prey ends and the hand begins. So people please save yourself the trouble and
use either tongs or something other than your hands to feed them. This will also make it easier if you have to remove the food from the container.

Live Prey vs. Frozen (Thaw) Prey: I don't understand why someone in their right mind would want to feed a snake in an enclosed container a live rodent. Lets see the mouse or rat have sharp teeth, claws, fleas, and other parasites. They can run faster and basically will fight to stay alive. The snake has a few fangs, can not run and no way to
protect its long body, eyes, and so on. It is true they will constrict around the prey but not before being bitten clawed and possible injured. So now you have a $100.00 or $300.00 snake done in or injured by a $2.00 mouse and lets not
forget the veterinary bill. This why I recommend feeding a snake a thaw prey. The prey is not going to hurt the snake and any would be parasites are dead because they have been frozen. I assure you thaw a mouse or rat at room temperature and the snake will go for it. You will still get the same dramatic effect of the snake constricting around it. The snake doesn't know it was a mouse pop. They are also less likely to be aggressive
or agitated in the long run.

Shedding: I have seen some snakes suffer horribly because someone try to shed them or didn't shed them for several months. Please for the sake of the snake check andsee if it is shedding or not. As many snakes as I have I always check and have a basic ideal when my snakes are shedding or about to. If there is a problem with one I will soak in it lukewarm warm water for about 20 minutes. It may take a few days and a few soaks. If that doesn't work take the snake to the vet this can be a good indication that something may be wrong with you snake. I will also caution you there is no such thing and I repeat no such thing as, A Snake Shedder. I saw the end result of a snake that was basically scalped because his intelligent owner brought one of these things. The poor snake was in such pain every time you touch it. So check with the vet before trying any of these crazy remedies. I would also caution you about trying to remove the eye caps or put anything in them. If the snake does not shed them please take your snake to the vet!

Heating: Snakes are ectotherms. This means they do not have the ability to retain heat as we do. This means as an owner you want to provide a comfortable environment. This mean a temperature range for most snakes of 65 to 85 degrees. This does not mean leaving them in the car all day or sunning them on the terrace. If you give them too much sun or heat they will get heat stroke and usually die. So you as the owner must balance their heat and sun exposure. I live in Nevada and we see a lot of snakes left in the car not a good idea. As far as heat in the enclosure, I don't like heat rocks. I have seen too many animals burn or injure by them because the owner was not responsible enough to watch the snake. I like the heat mats that are outside and under the tank. I have also seen people use heat mats for humans on reptiles. This is not a good ideal. The snake will either be injure or die. It is too hot for them. So please no human heat mats. These are just of the few things I feel will help and prevent you from making some of the mistakes I have seen. So please bookmark this page.

Midnight's Attic